Jacques Lassaigne Champagne "Clos Set. Sophie" 2015

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This is a superbly elegant wine, ripe with apple and quince fruit, hints of flowers, brioche and spice, but there is an unexpected finesse and delicacy here. Somewhat shocking to hear that the vins clairs are on the lees for four years in old oak, and then the wine ages a further three after tirage. There is no sense of heaviness here, the texture is lovely, creamy, and soft, yet the finish lingers invitingly on the palate. A slightly vinous sensation here suggests that there is enough substance to help this wine age for years to come. Charles Curtis MW