Henriques & Henriques Madeira Sercial 10yr
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Palest and the driest of the classical madeira varieties, Sercial is known as ‘Esgano Cão’—‘dog strangler’—on the Portuguese mainland, a nod to its fiery, mouth-puckering acidity. At its best, racy and high-toned, it is a wine of exquisite tension: Sercial shows dry despite containing 20-60 g/l RS; its sweetness balanced by an exhilarating, mouthwatering tang of acidity. Pungent with dried orange, almonds and saline spices in youth, Sercial mellows in maturity: acidity less taut but no less integral; its deep nuttiness to the fore. There are currently just 16-ha found on the island.
Energetic and appealing, the H&H Sercial 10-Year is the firm, polished style of the house: full, deep and suave, with the balance and concentration for which H&H is known. Well-calibrated acidity, mineral, saline and wood elements from the bold savor of dried apricot, lemon zest and spiced almond in route to a long, tapered finish.
As an aperitif and at the table, with fresh oysters and Oysters Rockefeller; sushi; grilled shrimp, swordfish and salmon; with grana-style, hard cheese (particularly domestic), olives and nuts.